19 March 2015

Japan Trip Day 3: MIYAJIMA

The day when we'd finally ride a Shinkansen train had arrived! We checked out from Tokyo Hotel Panex early in the morning (thanks for the fast check out service). From Kamata Station, we go to Tokyo Station and wait for the train to arrive. Other Shinkansen trains came and went, wusshh! I was so excited like a kid. I got the schedule and other info about Shinkansen from its official site here (in English) and a more detailed one here. The trip to Hiroshima took about 4 hours. I really enjoyed it: sitting in Shinkansen (do you know that many Japanese never try it?), watching cities and rural areas flew by. No claustrophobia, thankfully. The train was very fast but designed carefully not to make its passengers queasy.
Sungut monyong gantengnya si Nozomi
Si monyong gantengku inside Nozomi train
We got off the train at Hiroshima Station (it felt different from any of Tokyo stations, like older and slower; the people are older and less fashion-oriented), had lunch at one restaurant in the station, and bought Sanyo line train tickets to Miyajimaguchi Station.

Tempura udon and Horse-mackarel katsu

From Miyajimaguchi, we continued our journey by ferry to Miyajima Island. You can read more about hot to get to Miyajima in japan-guide link here. We stood on the deck to see the view. It was windy!

Miyajimaguchi ferry terminal, note the distinctive red color
Since most of Miyajima travel guides said that it's a small island, I didn't request for pick up service from our ryokan. I thought walking there will be easy since we only brought one suitcase, four wheels. Uhhh how stupid! My hubby had to drag our suitcase through sandy and rocky areas, then lifted it up along quite-steep steps to the ryokan. Even using four-wheeled suitcase wasn't helpful. Sorry, hubby.... kecian manyun deh doi. Untung ga gerah ya (trus dipelototin 'apa untung untung!'). 

I chose Ryokan Jukeiso for our 1-night-stay in Miyajima. Booking was done using Gambo-Ad and the communication via e-mails (in English). Ryokan staffs immediately welcomed us (English speaker was only the receptionist) and ushered us to our room (Japanese style seaside room) and provided our welcome drink (hot ocha with hot towels and snacks). Ruangannya lutjuuu, Jepang banget, aku sukaa! *ciyum-ciyum tatami, leyeh-leyeh di kotatsu*

Suasana ruangannya di siang hari.
Yup, di pinggir jendela itu kotatsu, enaak deh kalo sore-sore angetin badan di situ kaya Nobita!
Welcome drink
Langsung norak dong maen rumah-rumahan! So tacky! Hahaha!
Oya, I brought some Indonesian original coffee as souvenirs for the staffs because I read that Japanese don't like tips. Hope they like it!

After took some rest for a while, we headed out for some sight-seeing around the island. We were blessed with sakura mankai (full-blooms cherry blossoms) in Miyajima. This Visit-Miyajima site provides complete information about MIyajima, things-to-do, and its map. Again, because of my pregnancy, we just walked as much as I'm capable of. We walked along Asebi Walk to Tahoto Pagoda and Awashima Shrine. We passed Itsukushima Shrine and went along Omotesando (a road filled with many stores), where we shopped for Hiroshima souvenirs golden citrus blend Kitkat (Hiroshima is famous for its citrus) and Miyajima most famous maple-leaf cakes aka momiji manju. We also tried Miyajima most famous culinaire: octopus cake and oysters; they're so yummy! In Omotesando, there is a giant rice spoon, another famous spot of Miyajima. Saking gede, bisa buat nyendok orang!
Pictures work better than words, right? Here they are!

Asebi Walk

Sok-sokan bergaya model cover dorama gitu dehhh

Tahoto Pagoda
Deers of Miyajima
Ryokan Jukeiso seen from Asebi
Gojuunoto (five storied pagoda)

Pink Grapefruit Blend Minute Maid
Rasanya... kaya jeruk bali hahaha
Maple-shaped fried octopus cake, very yummy!
I was actually quite interested in feeding the deers but being pregnant for the first time made me very cautious. I was afraid to catch germs or virus from them so I ran away every time they came closer. They always came if we hold some food. Dasar rusa rakus!

Twilight came and we had got tired. We looked for a good place to rest and watch the sunset. Of course, we had to see the best sunset spot of Miyajima: Itsukushima no Otorii! One reason we spare one day to detour to Hiroshima instead of straightly going to Kyoto is to see this Grand Gate to Miyajima, one of Nihon Sankei (three most scenic places in Japan).



Beautiful isn't it?

The day got colder as the sun set so we headed back to our ryokan. I forgot to ask about the private (chartered) hot bath so it was already fully booked. Nevermind, I just intended to let my husband tried it; pregnant women are not recommended to have hot bath. We got back to our room and used the bathroom inside our room to take a bath. Jukeiso provides Shiseido lotions for their toiletries. Asiiikkk! *keluar lagi deh noraknya* As we went outside that afternoon, ryokan staffs had already prepared our futon (Japanese bed, laid on floor).

After changing into yukata provided by the ryokan (dan tentunya foto-foto norak di kamar), we went downstair to the dining room. We were the only guests wearing yukata (biasa, noraknya kronis). I already ordered for economy meal package (biasa, pelit) when booking the room. The difference from higher packages is only the number of dishes (we got 8 dishes while higher packages got more). Thank goodness I didn't order higher packages, the economy one has already made us very full! I even ate sashimi (raw fish) in the package after asked some staff ladies. They're so delighted hearing of my pregnancy, asked how many months it is, and said 'daijoubu, daijoubu' (means 'it's all right') about eating sashimi. (Huray! I knew it! Jap ladies must have been eating sashimi too during their pregnancy! And their children look fine.) I love the food here and the staffs genuine hospitality.

Each person got this much food!
Appetizer: salad with cornflakes and some salty gelatine (I dunno) with sakura on it;
Tuna sashimi with wasabi and some green sticky rice, again with flower on it.
Entree: Oyster katsu, nabe / shabu-shabu, rice and miso soup.
Dessert: fruit pannacotta.
Got full tummies, we decided to have another walk to take some night view of the torii. We changed our clothes first (not sure the yukata may be worn outside and it was too cold, too). The island at night was so serene. Cold and a bit spooky, but I loved it. A passenger boat was taking tourists passing the Otorii, so cool! It reminded me of Sen to Chihiro no Kamikakushi (Spirited Away), one of my fave Ghibli's movies. Ahhh jadi inget lagi, ga ke Ghibli Museum!


Good night, Miyajima, thank you for a very wonderful day!

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